Roulette Red Or Black
If you notice, its quite rare for a wheel to spin red, black, red, black, red, black, red, black for multiple spins, theres always a double red, or double black. So, if black comes out, bet black. Bet on the colour that comes out, doubling everytime it loses, as soon as it wins go back to the initial stake. The best bet in roulette is the one with the highest probability and lowest house edge, which is any of the following: red/black, odd/even, 1-18/19-36. These give you the biggest statistical chance of winning of all roulette bets. You can try these bets out the next time you play online roulette at our premium casino sites. Roulette is a casino game named after the French word meaning little wheel.In the game, players may choose to place bets on either a single number, various groupings of numbers, the colors red or black, whether the number is odd or even, or if the numbers are high (19–36) or low (1–18).
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Join Britannica's Publishing Partner Program and our community of experts to gain a global audience for your work!Roulette, (from French: “small wheel”), gambling game in which players bet on which red or black numbered compartment of a revolving wheel a small ball (spun in the opposite direction) will come to rest within. Bets are placed on a table marked to correspond with the compartments of the wheel. It is played in casinos worldwide. Roulette is a banking game, and all bets are placed against the bank—that is, the house, or the proprietor of the game. As a big-time betting game, it has had its popularity superseded in the United States and the Caribbean islands by others, notably craps, blackjack, and poker.
Fanciful stories about the origin of roulette include its invention by the 17th-century French mathematician Blaise Pascal, by a French monk, and by the Chinese, from whom it was supposedly transmitted to France by Dominican monks. In reality, roulette was derived in France in the early 18th century from the older games hoca and portique, and it is first mentioned under its current name in 1716 in Bordeaux. Following several modifications, roulette achieved its present layout and wheel structure about 1790, after which it rapidly gained status as the leading game in the casinos and gambling houses of Europe. During the years 1836 to 1933, roulette was banned in France.
Equipment
The roulette table is composed of two sections, the wheel itself and the betting layout, better known as the roulette layout. There are two styles of roulette tables. One has a single betting layout with the roulette wheel at one end, and the other has two layouts with the wheel in the centre. The wheel spins horizontally.
Heading the layout design, which is printed on green baize, is a space containing the figure 0 (European style) or the figures 0 and 00 (American style, although such wheels were used also in Europe during the 18th and 19th centuries). The main portion of the design is composed of 36 consecutively numbered rectangular spaces, alternately coloured red and black and arranged in three columns of 12 spaces each, beginning with 1 at the top and concluding with 36 at the bottom. Directly below the numbers are three blank spaces (on some layouts these are marked “2 to 1” and are located on the players’ side of the table). On either side of these or along one side of the columns are rectangular spaces marked “1st 12,” “2nd 12,” and “3rd 12” on American-style layouts. On European-style layouts these terms are “12p” (première), “12m” (milieu), and “12d” (dernière douzaine). Six more spaces are marked “red” (rouge), “black” (noir), “even” (pair), “odd” (impair), “1–18” (low, or manque), and “19–36” (high, or passe).
The roulette wheel consists of a solid wooden disk slightly convex in shape. Around its rim are metal partitions known as separators or frets, and the compartments or pockets between these are called canoes by roulette croupiers. Thirty-six of these compartments, painted alternately red and black, are numbered nonconsecutively from 1 to 36. On European-style wheels a 37th compartment, painted green, carries the sign 0, and on American wheels two green compartments on opposite sides of the wheel carry the signs 0 and 00. The wheel, its spindle perfectly balanced, spins smoothly in an almost frictionless manner.
The standard roulette table employs up to 10 sets of wheel checks (usually called chips). Each set is differently coloured; each traditionally consists of 300 chips; and there is one set for each player. The chips usually have a single basic value, although some casinos also sell chips of lesser value. The colour of the chips indicates the player, not the value of the chips. If a player wishes to buy chips of slightly higher value, the croupier places a marker indicating that value on top of the table’s stack of chips of the colour corresponding to the chips purchased. Most casinos also have high-value chips that can be wagered at any gaming table. Unlike roulette chips, these have their numbered values printed on them.
Bets
It is possible to place the following bets in roulette: (1) straight, or single-number (en plein), in which the chips are placed squarely on one number of the layout, including 0 (and also 00 on American layouts), so that the chips do not touch any of the lines enclosing the number; a winning single-number bet pays 35 to 1 (for each unit bet, a winning player receives his original bet and 35 matching units); (2) split, or 2-number (à cheval), in which the chips are placed on any line separating any two numbers; if either wins, payoff odds are 17 to 1; (3) street, or 3-number (transversale pleine), in which the chips are placed on the outside line of the layout, betting the three numbers opposite the chips; payoff odds on any of the three numbers are 11 to 1; (4) square, quarter, corner, or 4-number (en carré), in which the chips are placed on the intersection of the lines between any four numbers; payoff odds are 8 to 1; (5) line, or 6-number (sixaine or transversale six), in which the chips are placed on the intersection of the sideline and a line between two “streets”; payoff odds are 5 to 1; (6) column (colonne), or 12-number, in which the chips are placed on one of the three blank spaces (some layouts have three squares, marked “1st,” “2nd,” and “3rd”) at the bottom of the layout, thus betting the 12 numbers above the space; payoff odds are 2 to 1; (7) dozens (douzaine), or 12-number, in which the chips are placed on one of the spaces of the layout marked “12,” betting the numbers 1–12, 13–24, or 25–36; payoff odds are 2 to 1; (8) low-number or high-number, in which the chips are placed on the layout space marked “1–18” (manque) or on the space marked “19–36” (passe); payoff is even money; (9) black or red, in which the chips are placed on a space of the layout marked “black” (noir) or on a space marked “red” (rouge; some layouts have a large black or red diamond-shaped design instead of the words); payoff is even money; (10) odd-number or even-number, in which the chips are placed on the space of the layout marked “odd” (impair) or on the space marked “even” (pair); payoff is even money.
On layouts with a single zero (European style), the 0 may be included in a 2-number bet with any adjoining number, in a 3-number bet with 1 and 2 or with 2 and 3, and in a 4-number bet with 1, 2, and 3 at the regular odds for these bets. With the American-style 0 and 00, a 5-number line bet also is possible, the player placing his chips on the corner intersection of the line separating the 1, 2, 3 from the 0 and 00, with payoff odds of 6 to 1.
The play
The game begins when one of the croupiers (dealers) in attendance calls for the players to make their bets, which they do by placing chips on the spaces of the layout on any number, group, or classification they hope will win.
The croupier usually starts the wheel spinning in a counterclockwise direction and then spins a small ivory or plastic ball onto the bowl’s back track in the opposite direction. Players may continue to place bets while the wheel and ball are in motion until the ball slows down and is about to drop off the back track, at which time one of the croupiers announces that no more bets may be made.
When the ball falls and comes to rest between any two metal partitions of the wheel, it marks the winning number (or a 0 or 00), the winning colour, and any other permitted bet that pertains to a winning number or symbol. The dealer immediately announces the winning number and its colour and places a special marker on the corresponding number on the layout. He first collects all losing bets, not disturbing the chips that are resting on winning spaces, and then pays off any winning bets.
I was reading about a bet method on a published system for a different game and it seems to be worth trying on roulette. Especially for you lucky punters that have access to non-zero roulette. Or even single zero with “la partage”.
The bet selection is your choice. This bet method is based on Oscar’s Grind. That is, we increase our bet amount after a win and we keep it the same after a loss.
We have to keep track of 3 numbers. Units Lost, current bet size and a running total to be able to know when we’ve reached our win target. Losses starts out as 0, bet size starts out as 1 and of course running total starts out at zero. Every time we lose we increase Losses by the amount lost and the bet amount remains unchanged. Every time we win we increase the bet amount by 1 unit and we decrease Losses by the amount won. Every time we lose 2 times in a row, we stop betting until we have a virtual win then we start betting for real at the unit amount of the last bet we made.
This is a means of trying to prevent large streaks of losses from wiping us out. It is off-set by the reality that we may skip wins and come back to play and catch 2 more losses. If we do this once that’s 4 losses in a row, and twice is 6 losses in a row. But all in all I think stopping after 2 losses and waiting for the losing streak to end is a safer idea.
The only reason we keep track of losses is that we have a chart that comes into play after we’ve won 2 times in a row. This tells us what to bet based on how many units we are down. Using this chart is entirely optional.
Units down Bet Amount
1-3 1
4-6 2
7-9 3
10 + 4
This chart accomplishes 2 things. First, it causes us to increase our bet size more rapidly if we just had a long stretch of losses and it lets us reduce our bet size if we’re betting larger units but have recovered most or all of our losses.
4 units is the largest bet we will be making and if we lose a 4 unit bet, we end that attack and re-set losses to 0 and bet size to 1. I also suggest that you re-set any time you reach a new high bank amount. That’s the basic skeleton of the bet method. It can be adjusted to suit your personal preferences. For example you can make a losing bet of 5 or 6 the stop-loss target.
The original version has us adding an extra unit to the losses number for every loss. This gives us some guaranteed profit if we get back to zero. I didn’t include this factor because it’s just as easy to keep track of our total and make decisions accordingly.
Some observations
This is a very controlled money management strategy. It keeps the bets from escalating too high by ending the game on a 4 unit lost bet. This is a very important part of the method. Every bet selection will have periodic losing streaks. We either need to be prepared to bet a long progression, risking large numbers of units to try and stop a loss or we need to be willing to take small losses more often to keep from having to use a long expensive progression.
The above paragraph is in red because it’s the reality of most gambling systems. It has to be come to grips with if you intend to stay sane playing this game. I’m not say that a long progression is dumb, I’m just saying that if you use it, you have to be aware of the pitfalls and be willing to take a really big hit every now and then. Also, it takes a lot of guts to place the larger bet amounts so, “Know thyself” before you try to play using a steep progression.
That’s the method in a nutshell. Use it if you like it,
GLC
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A minor tweak to this progression
Use any even chance bet selection method you like. Or for simplicity, just pick one of the even chances, such as Red and play Red only. Or if it makes you mad if you happen to pick the wrong color, play follow-the-last. That way you’ll catch all steaks of either color. What you won’t like is RBRBRBRBRBRBR. But, there’s no selection process that doesn’t have a killer sequence.
The bet progression is what I’m presenting here.
We will increase our bet size after 2 wins and we’ll stay the same after a loss. The 2 wins don’t have to be in a row and it doesn’t matter how many losses are between them.
This is a possible sequence:
-1-1-1+1-1-1+1-2-2+2+2-3-3-3+3-3+3+4+4-4 = -5
Here’s a winning sequence:
+1-1-1+1+2+2-3+3+3-4 = +3
4 units is the largest bet we make.
We play until we lose on a 4 unit bet.
We can win many 4 bets but when we lose a 4 unit bet we end the attack plus or minus.
I am tightening up my rules for playing this system.
I have changed the “Chart”. For all of you who have any respect for anything I write, I’m encouraging you to look at this more closely. I suggest this because it is a very solid bet method that gives enough wiggle room to win some units without ever risking too much at one time. I suggest a 40 unit buy-in and a 10 unit win target. As you play it you can adjust these to suit yourself. I will suggest a bet selection method but you can use any even chance method you like.
1. RBRBRBRB etc… Just alternate continuously. This will keep from having long losing stretches most of the time. The rule in the system of ending real betting after 2 losses in a row and then only resuming real betting after a win works well in conjunction with this bet method.
We have to keep track of 3 numbers.
Units Lost
Current bet size
Running total.
Losses start out as 0, bet size starts as 1.
Every time we lose we increase Losses by the amount lost and the bet amount remains unchanged.
Every time we win we increase the bet amount by 1 unit and we decrease Losses by the amount won.
Every time we lose 2 times in a row, we stop betting until we have a virtual win then we start betting again.
The only reason we keep track of losses is that we have a chart that comes into play after we’ve won 2 times in a row. This tells us what to bet based on how many units we are down.
Units down Bet Amount
1-2 1
3-4 2
5-6 3
7-8 4
9 or more 5*
Continue to bet based on the chart as long as you are winning or until you reach 0, 1.
As soon as you lose a bet from the chart, you go back to the normal betting rules.
This chart accomplishes 2 things. First, it causes us to increase our bet size more rapidly if we just had a long stretch of losses and it lets us reduce our bet size if we’re betting larger units but have recovered most or all of our losses.
*Note: This is the only time we will ever bet 5 units. It’s when we have won 2 times in a row and we go to the chart and we’re down 9 units or more, then and only then can we bet 5 units. Never more than 5 units. Any time we lose a 5 unit bet we end the session and take our loss.
4 units is the largest bet we will make other then the 5 unit bet when using the chart. If we lose a 4 unit bet, we also end that attack and re-set losses to 0 and bet size to 1. Re-set everything any time you reach a new profit. That will be when the running total = +1.
You can stop looking for a better even chance system. There are none. There may be others as good, but none better. You can be fooled by long progressions, but they are just smoke and mirrors. In the end, the closer you stay to a flat bet, the better off you’re going to be.
I’m thinking this is as good as it gets.
Especially for baccarat where you have to bet large units.
It can be dialed back to limit the size of our bets even more. We can say that under normal betting when we lose a 3 unit bet we have to reset. That would mean on the chart we’d have to drop the line for the 5 unit bet and say that any draw-down over 7 units results in a 4 unit bet. Any loss on the 4 unit bet causes a termination and overall reset.
When we’re betting from the chart, as long as we win we stay with the chart. If we lose at either 3 or 4 unit bets, this ends the attack, reset. If we win and the chart tell us to bet 2 units and we lose, then we go back to our progression line. I have been having very good results using the alternating bet selection process. The only thing that kills it is to be on the losing side of chops. In this case the stop after 2 losses until a win to resume betting helps stabilize the system.
I’m always trying to tweak it to be better. It actually does well if we go to the chart after every win instead of waiting for 2 wins in a row. Also using the chart after 2 wins but not necessarily in a row works also.
Win At Roulette Red Or Black
When you test a session, check and see if alternating R/B or B/P does as well, worse or better than the bet selection you used. Also, see if one of the options sending us to the chart more frequently helps any. Or, don’t mess with it at all. It works fine as is! I just need to leave well enough alone.
Roulette Red Or Black Payout
GLC
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Roulette-Bet comment: We don’t know about the STOP-RESTART idea of this system, but we DO LIKE the progression. Also you can minimize your win target to just two units instead of five.